QRZ! Ham Radio 4/QRZ Ham Radio Callsign Database - Volume 4.iso/digests/antenna/940071.txt

Internet Message Format | 1994-11-13 | 11KB

Date: Sat, 19 Mar 94 04:30:19 PST
From: Ham-Ant Mailing List and Newsgroup <[e-mail]>
Errors-To: [e-mail]
Reply-To: [e-mail]
Precedence: Bulk
Subject: Ham-Ant Digest V94 #71
To: Ham-Ant


Ham-Ant Digest              Sat, 19 Mar 94       Volume 94 : Issue   71

Today's Topics:
                 93 Quest-How to Mount A 2m Antenna?
                     add freq. counter? (2 msgs)
                   CATV 75 ohm hardline connectors
              LUMINA APV, mobile antenna - HELP (2 msgs)
                      Need advice for HF antenna
             What 6 mtr. vert. base ant. to build or buy?

Send Replies or notes for publication to: <[e-mail]>
Send subscription requests to: <[e-mail]>
Problems you can't solve otherwise to [e-mail].

Archives of past issues of the Ham-Ant Digest are available
(by FTP only) from UCSD.Edu in directory "mailarchives/ham-ant".

We trust that readers are intelligent enough to realize that all text
herein consists of personal comments and does not represent the official
policies or positions of any party.  Your mileage may vary.  So there.
----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: 18 Mar 1994 02:09:18 GMT
From: ihnp4.ucsd.edu!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!slip-5-14.ots.utexas.edu![e-mail]
Subject: 93 Quest-How to Mount A 2m Antenna?
To: [e-mail]

It all seemed so easy, there was so much open space up there for an
antenna. I went out and bought an NMO mount and a 2-meter quarter-wave
whip. Now I realize that I can't figure out how to get the headliner out to
drill the hole.

The minivan has a factory sunroof and a non-metallic(?) luggage rack. Even
with the help of the shop manual, I can't figure out how to get the
headliner out to drill the hole...there are 3" wide plastic retainers all
around that seem remarkably immovable.

There is inadequate room ("depth") above the dome light to mount the
antenna there and still put the dome light back in. All windows except the
windshield are openable, so thru-glass antennas are not usable except in
front...anyway, I was hoping to avoid anything taller than a quarter wave.

Has anyone successfully done this? How?
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
  _     Miles Abernathy, N5KOB        =
 | |__  [e-mail]  =
_|    | POB 7580, Austin TX 78713     =
\  * /  University of Texas @ Austin  =
  \/    tel. [phone]  U.S.A.   =
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Mar 1994 23:23:47 GMT
From: ihnp4.ucsd.edu!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!news2.uunet.ca!xenitec!tdkcs!isle![e-mail]
Subject: add freq. counter?
To: [e-mail]

Any one have any ideas on adding a frequency counter (or just pulling a
 signal) between my station and antenna without throwing my match out
 the window... ( my station being a 27mhz cb radio, I figured someone here
 would have some idea)......

thanx, Darrin Norman

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Mar 1994 07:28:09 GMT
From: ihnp4.ucsd.edu!dog.ee.lbl.gov!agate!library.ucla.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!news2.uunet.ca!iceonline!icebox![e-mail]
Subject: add freq. counter?
To: [e-mail]

>Any one have any ideas on adding a frequency counter (or just pulling a
> signal) between my station and antenna without throwing my match out
> the window... ( my station being a 27mhz cb radio, I figured someone here
> would have some idea)......
>
>thanx, Darrin Norman
>

Yep. Friend of mine did the very thing a few years back when he was still into
CB.  He took the easy route - one that may or may not work for you.  He
wrapped a couple of turns of wire around the coax and ran it back to the input
on his frequency counter, mind you, this works nicely if you have lossy coax.
Something I did for my station was to run that self-same wire into my swr
meter and picked off the signal there.  Since my meter was constantly in-line,
I had nary a problem.

Jan VE7FJC
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                            : If you eat a live toad first thing in the
 [e-mail]  : morning, nothing worse will happen to you all
                            : day.
                            : To you or the toad.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: 17 Mar 1994 14:01:09 -0800
From: ihnp4.ucsd.edu!dog.ee.lbl.gov!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!ssd.intel.com!chnews!ornews.intel.com!ornews.intel.com!not-for-mail@@..
Subject: CATV 75 ohm hardline connectors
To: [e-mail]

Someone asked me about my homebrew 3/4" 75 ohm hardline connectors.
I thought I'd pass it onto the net also:

There are connectors available but they are expensive.  I also have
collected some magazine articles about this stuff including a 75-to-50
ohm 1/4 wave matching line that I've built and have running.
For the connectors I prefer to make my own.  I take a perfectly good
female N -to- female N connector and saw it right in half.  Then I
go get some 1/2" pipe -to- 1/2" copper tube fittings.
Be sure to straighten the cable before proceeding or the center conductor
will be pushed out the end of the connector when you do.  Don't we all
have to learn the hard way?  Cut and trim your cable so that the
middle conductor sticks out a little ways and is filed flat on the end.
Push the center conductor out of one of the cutoff N connector ends and
very carefully solder this to the center conductor.  Make sure its very
straight.  Then get your big iron or torch and sweat solder the N connector
barrel into the 1/2" copper tube end of the copper adaptor.  You may have
to file off the plating of the N connector barrel to achieve this.
With some of the plastic jacket removed from the hardline, the 1/2" pipe
end of the copper adaptor should screw right onto the hardline.  Do this
until the center pin of the N connector is sticking out the correct
length in the N connector.  If you cut everything right it should work out
okay.  Would I supply exact dimensions?  Not until I have to do it again.
I use Penetrox on the threads and aluminum jacket where it screws on.
You may then weather proof with liquid electrical tape or the goop of
your choice.
This works for me but I'm very patient and used to this kind of
fabrication.  Others may curse and swear if they try it.

--
[e-mail]  WA7LDV

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Mar 1994 20:02:19 GMT
From: ihnp4.ucsd.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!news2.uunet.ca!xenitec!tdkcs!isle![e-mail]
Subject: LUMINA APV, mobile antenna - HELP
To: [e-mail]

Yvan Dupont ([e-mail]) wrote:

: Does anyone have a suggestion for mobile antenna to put on a Chevrolet
: LUMINA APV? This vehicule is PLASTIC...

: What are your experience or suggestion with that kind of problem!

Do the samething one would do when putting an antenna on a fiero...
don't put one on!... =)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Mar 1994 19:36:20 GMT
From: ihnp4.ucsd.edu!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!convex!convex!constellation!osuunx.ucc.okstate.edu!olesun![e-mail]
Subject: LUMINA APV, mobile antenna - HELP
To: [e-mail]

In article <[e-mail]>,
Darrin Norman <[e-mail]> wrote:
>Yvan Dupont ([e-mail]) wrote:
>: Does anyone have a suggestion for mobile antenna to put on a Chevrolet
>: LUMINA APV? This vehicule is PLASTIC...
>
Two approches will work. First us a Jpole as it does not need a ground
plane. second is to build a ground plane under the plastic. On John
Deer tractor cabs we put hail screen under the fiberglass top. Another
way would be to use the copper tape that is use for making stained glass
and stick it to the underside of the panel in a spoke pattern. If you
want to make them resonate they will be a little shorter tha if they
were in free space.

Good luck
Gordon AB5Dg

------------------------------

Date: 17 Mar 1994 22:50:27 GMT
From: nwnexus!pt.olympus.net!ptpm000.olympus.net![e-mail]
Subject: Need advice for HF antenna
To: [e-mail]

I recently bought my first HF rig and just passed my exam for General.  Now
I need an HF antenna! I figured this group would have lots of advice.

Here╘s the details.  I have a two story house about 30 feet above salt
water to the north.  The lot is 60 feet wide and about 300 feet long.  The
long dimension of the lot is just east of being due north and south.  My
shack is on the second story.  There is a big fir (60 feet tall?) on the
bluff above the water and a smaller cedar (40 feet) on the rear of the lot.
 The are other smaller trees along one side of the lot.  The house is about
30 feet from the big fir.  The power and telephone lines come about halfway
down one side of the lot.

I just bought a Kenwood TS-520S with tube finals.  I also have a WanZerCo
antenna tuner configurable as either a T or Pi with roller coil and two
variable capacitors.  I really don╘t know what HF bands I want to use yet
except that the TS-520S doesn╘t have the newer bands (30, 17 and 12
meters).

I╘ve been thinking that a wire antenna would be easy to start with,
possibly a long wire.  So that╘s the story (did I leave anything out?).  I
would appreciate any and all suggestions.

Thanks in advance.  73╘s

Phil Keys  KB7WXQ

--
[e-mail] (Phil Keys)
Software Consultant - specializing in software safety & SQA
Port Hadlock, WA  [phone]
_____________________________________________________________

------------------------------

Date: 17 Mar 1994 21:49:21 -0800
From: ihnp4.ucsd.edu!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!udel!news.sprintlink.net!connected.com!connected.com![e-mail]
Subject: What 6 mtr. vert. base ant. to build or buy?
To: [e-mail]

I need an efficient 6 meter vertical base antenna.  A Diamond 6.5
db one is an idea.  Any recommendation of it?  Any others?  Homebrew?
Reply here or to my E-Mail ([e-mail]).

TU, Bob Barth, W7GBB

------------------------------

End of Ham-Ant Digest V94 #71
******************************